INTRODUCTION

Composting speeds the natural process whereby microorganisms break down organic matter into simple, nutritious topsoil. When this occurs on the forest floor, it's called mulching, but when people have a hand in the procedure, we call it composting. Composting requires water, air, and rotting material with good nitrogen to carbon ratio.
The compost will radiate heat if it contains a good ratio of carbon to nitrogen while it cures. A subtle, emanating warmth means that worms, fungi, and bacteria are working hard. When the majority of decomposition has taken place and the compost is ready to be spread on a garden or lawn, the compost will feel cool.

How Does composting work?

During the first stage of composting, the more easily decomposed materials such as sugars and starches degrade, creating high temperatures over 40°C.

In the next stage, the more resistant materials such as green waste, food scraps, paper & cardboard products and animal waste. At this time, there is a suppression of any pathogenic microbes. Aerating, using a purpose built compost windrow turner is important during this period to eliminate anaerobic conditions, which delay completion.

In the final stage during which the ripening of compost occurs, the process is dominated by good bacterial and gradually leads to the rebuilding of the decomposed organic matter into humus.

Composting changes nitrogen from a mineral form to an organic form. This bound or organic nitrogen is then released slowly to plants over a period of time. The result is that all organic nitrogen is recycled into plants and the slow, sustained release of nutrients into soil protects ground water and builds needed organic matter.

Finally, you reach a point when the temperature throughout the mix of compost begins to fall. The moisture is right and in fact the material has reached that stage when it is no longer easy to distinguish between the manure and the bedding components. At this point, your compost is ready for spreading on the land. Your compost is finished when you no longer recognize what the original materials were. The compost will be sweet smelling like forest soil, fluffy and dark brown.

Moisture and temperature are the factors to keep in mind.

Moisture is necessary to support the metabolic processes of the microbes. Composting material should be maintained with a range of 40% to 65% moisture. The moisture content will have a direct effect on the amount of turnings that are needed. Experience has shown that the composting process stalls when the moisture content falls below 40%. Water displaces much of the air in the pore spaces of the composting materials when the moisture content is above 65%. The more moisture the more turnings will be necessary. Moisture content generally decreases as the composting; therefore, you may need to add additional moisture to the compost.

MOISTURE LEVEL TEST

Take a handful of composting material and squeeze it in your hand. It should form a ball which you can bounce in your hand. If it is too dry, no ball forms. If a ball forms, but it is one that will not break after a few bounces, it is too wet.

Temperature

It is strongly recommend using a thermometer with readings from 0 degrees to 95 degrees C to monitor compost piles or windrows. Take and record measurements daily in the same pre-chosen locations on the windrow. Depending on the length of the windrow up to twenty temperature readings maybe required to obtain a full and comprehensive picture of microbe activity.

When conditions are right, you will notice a steady rise in temperature in a new compost pile as the microbes reproduce and the processes of decay accelerate. If the material is too wet, the temperature may remain quite cool and constant. Such material can be dried by turning as often as every two to three days until the temperature begins moving up.

Handy Hint

Normally it will continue to rise until it reaches 50° to 65° C, at which point it may suddenly stop. Keep on monitoring the temperature. If it stays up, fine. If it drops, aerate again.

As long as the temperature stays up in this range, it indicates there is enough oxygen for the microbes.

HOW THE OZ TURNER WORKS
As mentioned before, the two main ingredients to make the composting process happen (apart from the raw materials) is air and water. The Oz Turner is a purpose built compost windrow turner that easily adds both these ingredients.

The drum and paddle design are crucial to the aerating of compost. The drum spins at approx 230rpm and physically throws the entire windrow up through the Oz Turners tunnel where it will then land behind the turner in a perfect triangular shape (ideal for the composting process) collecting oxygen in the process.
The Oz Turners paddles do not scrape the ground in order to gather 100% of the compost material, the spinning paddles instead suck the remaining material (below the paddles) into the drum for the aerating process. The Oz Turners paddles do wear down in time but are reversible to double the life expectancy. (generally 2 – 3 years)

The best way to add water into the compost is to connect an external water supply straight to the Oz Turners built in watering system that delivers water directly into the material as it passes through the tunnel while aerating. All Oz Turners come standard with a built in watering system and mounting hitch to allow a water cart (generally with a 4 – 5hp petrol pump attached to a 2000 – 7000 litre water tank) to attach to the side of the turner and allow it to be plumbed into the built in watering system.
Because of the physical amount of material the Oz Turner has to move through its tunnel, the tractor pulling it must have either creeper gearing or hydrostatic drive available that allows the turner to move through the windrow at an extraordinary slow speed.

Here are some Videos of the Oz Turner CT3600.